A Beginner’s Guide to Surfing: What You Should Know

Surfing, a sport that offers an exciting blend of physical challenge and connection with nature, continues to capture the attention of adventure seekers. Surfing provides a unique mix of fun, exercise, and even relaxation—just skip a wave set or two whenever you feel like it—whether the thrill of riding waves draws you in or you just love to be out in the water, taking in the earth’s beauty.

Surfing has become a symbol of freedom and individual expression for many. Yet, starting can be intimidating. It takes time to learn which locations are best for practicing, which type of board to buy, and how to read the ocean’s conditions.

Safety is a cornerstone of a positive surfing experience. Learning how to handle your board, what to do in unexpected situations, and respecting the marine environment are crucial. This beginner’s guide to surfing details what you should know about the fundamental aspects to get you ready for your first wave.

Brief History of Surfing

Surfing has a rich and storied history that spans thousands of years. Many believe the sport to have originated in the Polynesian islands, where it was deeply rooted in the culture and traditions of the native peoples. Ancient Hawaiians viewed surfing as both an art form and a spiritual experience.

Surfing began to achieve mass popularity in the early 20th century when figures such as Duke Kahanamoku, an Olympic swimmer and Hawaiian native, began to promote it globally. Duke’s demonstrations in places such as California and Australia sparked international interest. His charisma and dedication to the sport helped to revive its popularity and establish surf communities worldwide.

We owe a debt of gratitude to Duke for his hard work and perseverance. He faced significant personal challenges and resistance along the way from people who didn’t understand Hawaiian culture or the surfing lifestyle. Without his efforts and those of many surfers who came after him, surfing would not be as widely accepted and popular as it is today.

Choosing the Right Surfboard

A surfboard’s material is pivotal to your learning experience. Foam boards, or “soft tops,” are best for novices due to their buoyancy and forgiving nature. They are less likely to cause injury during wipeouts and are easier to paddle, making them ideal for those just starting to catch waves.

The fin setup on your surfboard is another important aspect to consider. Most beginner boards feature a single-fin, tri-fin, or 2+1 setup. Single fins enable looser, more free-flowing turns, while a tri-fin setup provides more stability, which is great for learners. Consider a 2+1 setup to get the best of both worlds. It comes with a large single fin and removable side fins, enabling you to ride in either single-fin or tri-fin mode.

 

Essential Gear

Apart from a surfboard, some additional gear will greatly enhance your surfing experience. Wetsuits are essential in cooler waters, providing insulation and buoyancy. The colder the water, the thicker your wetsuit will need to be to stay comfortable.

Our baseline recommendation in water between 55°F and 64°F (very common for many US beach locations in Spring and Summer) is either a 3/2 or a 4/3 thick suit. The number to the left of the slash is the core thickness in millimeters, and the number to the right is the thickness of the arms and legs.

Here’s a good rule of thumb for choosing thickness: start with a 4/3 suit in 55°F water. You can decrease your wetsuit thickness by 1mm for every 10°F increase and vice versa: increase thickness by 1mm for every 10°F decrease.

Check the manufacturer’s wetsuit temperature guide and ask a salesperson at your local surf shop to ensure you’re purchasing the right wetsuit. You might consider heading out without a wetsuit when the water temperature exceeds 70°F. However, we still recommend having some protection for your stomach area, such as a rash guard.

Rash guards protect your skin from sunburn with UV inhibitors (check the tag to ensure it comes with SPF50+ protection) and prevent skin irritation caused by friction between your upper body and the board. They come in various styles, including long-sleeve, short-sleeve, and sleeveless options.

Finally, leashes are crucial for safety and having a good time in the water. They keep you attached to your board in case you need to use it as a flotation device after wiping out in deeper water. Leashes also keep your board close by, so you don’t have to swim into shore every time you jump off.

Without a leash, your board will often get carried all the way to shore after each ride. You will want to make sure your leash size is always as long as the length of your board—adding an extra foot doesn’t hurt! Leashes that are too short keep the board a little too close after a wipeout (some separation after a wipeout is good for safety). Leashes that are too long can slow you down in the water.

We highly recommend getting a leash with stainless steel swivels to prevent rusting and leash tangling, which can create a major annoyance by forcing you to untangle it after every wave.

For more details on highly recommended gear, check out our Top 5 Accessories Every Surfer Should Have.

Understanding Surf Conditions and How To Choose a Spot

Understanding surf conditions and how to pick a surf spot is fundamental to a successful and safe surfing experience. Consider the following tips:

• Always start in the smallest possible waves. Surf the inside waves which are the ones you will find closest to shore and are mostly comprised of whitewater.
• A great way to choose your first surf break is to find a place where a surf school regularly operates and go out close to where they take their students. Surf schools know better than anyone where the best places for beginners are. No need to reinvent the wheel; just follow where the schools go out, but give them some space by heading up or down the beach a little bit to avoid getting in the way of their lessons.
• A surf report will tell you the wave’s size in feet (typically shown as: 0-1ft, 4-5ft, etc.). This report is a crucial indicator of how powerful the swell will be. Most surf forecasting websites describe the swell as the wave’s projected height when looking at it from the front. One to two feet is an ideal swell height range for beginners. Anything less than this will likely be too weak to stand up on and anything much larger will create a frustrating experience.
• The wind speed, reported in knots (kts), is also important to know. The lower the projected wind speed, the better. Wind speeds ranging from seven to ten knots can have a negative effect on wave quality. Higher winds don’t necessarily mean you shouldn’t go out but just know that conditions might be less than ideal.
• Check out our 5 Safety Tips Every Surfer Should Know before heading out and be sure to bring a buddy or two to surf with you. Having friends out there will ensure you have a great time and stay safe.
• A good rule of thumb for deciding how far to paddle out as a beginner is to only go where the water is waist-high. Anything deeper than waist-high for a beginner creates added risk and won’t improve your experience.

Surfing Technique

Surfing can be a challenge even for natural athletes; therefore, we strongly recommend starting out by taking lessons. Then, progress from your base established through lessons by heading out with friends who have more surfing experience. But how do you find a good school? We recommend looking for schools with National Surf Schools & Instructors Association (NSSIA) or USA Surfing accreditations. If there aren’t any accredited schools in your area, try asking your local surf shop and checking Google reviews for schools with at least 25+ reviews.

In the event you can't find a local surf school that fits your style, there are a number of great online-based surf lesson providers.  We highly recommend checking out Barefoot Surf and OMBE Surf for these.

Safety and Fitness

Building fitness for surfing involves a well-balanced approach that enhances cardiovascular health, muscular strength, and flexibility. Regular cardiovascular exercises such as running, swimming, or cycling will improve stamina and endurance, allowing you to stay in the water for longer periods.

Strength training, particularly targeting the upper body, legs, and core muscles, is great for building paddling power, maintaining stability on the board, and executing maneuvers. Exercises such as push-ups, pull-ups, squats, and planks are particularly beneficial.

We also highly recommend taking Yoga or Pilates classes and doing some good basic stretches at home for greater flexibility.

Additionally, there are many great online surf training resources which offer land training exercises to build surfing strength and flexibility between sessions.  We are big fans of the work of Hydromind in this area.

By taking the time to understand this beginner’s guide to surfing and what you should know, investing in the right gear, and finding a good surf school, you will be ready to ride your first wave. Surfing is an adventure; that’s why we named our company AVENTURAS. Great rewards await those with the commitment and dedication to apply these tips.